Page 1 of 1

HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sun May 13, 2018 3:07 pm
by MissMySwiss
Hello everyone !

I'm back after a few months of absence in between the old and new forum !

I remember HMV130 having restored the finish of a brown HMV 101 and getting quite good results. As I'm currently restoring a blue machine that has seen quite a bit of sunshine and seaside and so its exposed rexine has become quite tarnished compared to the parts that have been hidden under nickel parts for decades.

I've tried many polishes and products (including my standard shoe cleaner) but most seem to dissolve part of the main colour of the scales which then goes on the light coloured part and covers all the rexine and gives an erratic finish. My best try is ultra light paint/shine polish and the a plastic restorer, and sometimes I reach the right original colour but still get some blue traces on the light blue. All this work is VERY time consuming and quite random, so I was wondering if you have any good products to advise ?

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 7:06 am
by Gmemg
Sometimes this damage isn't easily restored but must be at least Dyed or even painted over - i've seen machines which appear bleached or even acid damaged and yet it's just fading and finding an acceptable solution can be very hard as often dyes or stains can be allied only for them to fade quickly to a different colour than intended or just vanish

with the croc models the base colour is dark with lighter veins and this can only be replicated by mixing the same colour paint gently going over the whole lot NOT with a brush but by dabbing with a sponge letting ti dry and then gently going over the veins in a lighter colour after

not an easy way of doing it and it's often very difficult to achieve a satisfactory result

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 3:19 pm
by MissMySwiss
Thanks for the answer !

Yeah it's a pretty tricky job. I'll send ou pictures of my results with my polish. It's ALMOST ok, but can't be done as quickly as cleaning a standard rexine model x)

Is there anyone left from the old forum ? I don't see as many posts.

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 4:46 pm
by rgodridge
There's me, but on this topic I'd be useless :d

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sun May 20, 2018 8:09 am
by Gmemg
No trouble - sometimes rexine can fade very badly indeed - the Blue HMV 101's are actually coated with a sort of varnish which discolours badly and has to be removed but oddly it seems only the blue ones were coated !

As to posts - yes there are fewer posts as i couldn't transfer all the posts from the Old forum but we have a lot of the old members here - since starting this forum the old one has become public again so i don't know if we should just move back to that one - any ideas welcome !

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 8:15 am
by MissMySwiss
Gmemg wrote:
Sun May 20, 2018 8:09 am
No trouble - sometimes rexine can fade very badly indeed - the Blue HMV 101's are actually coated with a sort of varnish which discolours badly and has to be removed but oddly it seems only the blue ones were coated !

As to posts - yes there are fewer posts as i couldn't transfer all the posts from the Old forum but we have a lot of the old members here - since starting this forum the old one has become public again so i don't know if we should just move back to that one - any ideas welcome !
I suceeded in cleaning the brown looking film that was all over the rexine but it seems the dark blue cleans better than the lighe blue, maybe because it is turquoise and may react differently to UV rays that good ol sun probably spreaded more than enough on that beachside used portable. The light blue, though much cleaner, seems to still have a sort of "light greeninsh" colour that annoys me a lot as I'm trying to get as close as possible to the colours found under the nickeled corners, which never were exposed to the sun. Any advice on how to clean that turquoise blue ?

The greening isn't as apparend depending on the light buuut .... it's there :
Sun corner-min.jpg
Sun corner-min.jpg (150.73 KiB) Viewed 1608 times
In the sun
dark_corner_min.jpg
dark_corner_min.jpg (93.54 KiB) Viewed 1608 times
In the dark

As regarding tone I'm not using my standard shoe cream as it seems to just spread the dark blue all over the place which ruins the veiny effect, but I've found an excellent plasptic reviver that gives almost as good a colour as the original, in spite of the greenish tone I mention polluting the light blue.
no_corner_min.jpg
no_corner_min.jpg (139.47 KiB) Viewed 1608 times
With corner removed

What do you think ?

Do you have any miracle products I didn't think of ? My best guess now is use water+baking soda and a microfiber cloth to remove the film as well as possible (bloody green !) and the apply the reviver. But can it be done any better ?

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 8:25 am
by MissMySwiss
Considering the original condition was that it can already be considered a victory but meh ... I'm a perfectionist, and tha'ts why I buy wrecks for btw ; try and find the best methods ^^
5(1).jpg
5(1).jpg (132.41 KiB) Viewed 1605 times
corner_min.jpg
corner_min.jpg (166.6 KiB) Viewed 1605 times
tone_min.jpg
tone_min.jpg (144.28 KiB) Viewed 1605 times

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:03 pm
by MissMySwiss
After reflexion, only bicarconate and vigorous motion as Mr Colonel once said in his videos might be the key ... I know what I'll do next weeks xD

If you ever get yellowing from one of those fake-leather try bicarbonate dissolved to paste state with water, and apply it with just enough dampness to slightly wet the case, and the wipe thorouhly. Wipe off with a slighlt damp clean new microfiber. Once dry just brush softly with a fine brush and admire the result. The operation might be done till acceptable tone is achieved.

Only thing I'm worried about with that is, how long will it last ? Same happens with many plastics like old computers etc ... but even if you clean them the yellow will eventually come back ... :roll:

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:10 am
by Gmemg
I think you've done very well indeed ! as i've said before the Blue HMV 101's discolour and that turns out to be a sort of sealant or varnish which discolours with age and must be removed with paint stripper which may seem rather drastic but is the only way

I don't believe the Croc finish 101s are treated int he same way but do know that when cleaning with washing soda the lighter paint - for that is what it is - come off , this is not due to age but to the fat that it's some kind of emulsion which can be made by using white emulsion with a touch of blue added to the right colour and applied but that is a bit of a pain

I would also remove (if possible) the corners when cleaning them as attacking them with a wire brush doesn't do the rexine much good and even getting brasso of the rexine around the corners isn't that easy if it's dried

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:50 pm
by MissMySwiss
A friend of mine told me plastics are often varnished to protect them from direc sun harm. So instead of the leathererette being hurt, it will be the varnish. Any ideas of what to use or what that varnish was made from ?

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 7:53 am
by Gmemg
I assume the varnish is a sort of shellac not unlike french polish but the sort that's clear rather than being brown but with age on the machines i've had it does go brown and it cannot be cleaned it just has to be removed and then you get an almost MINT finish underneath

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:09 pm
by MissMySwiss
Mmh yeah I was suspecting somthing like that. I've searched for anti UV varnishes a bit and all we have today was invented at least in the late 30's so nothing to do with 1927/8 sadly ... All polyurethane (1937) or acrylic (1950's).

What's your experience with unvarnishing ? Does the leatherette alter or get yellow ?

I personally noticed it takes fingertprints WAY too easily now ahaha x) Is it because I haven't cleaned the residues of soda well yet ?

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:13 am
by Gmemg
I just brush on some paintstripper and then without waiting too long i wipe it off again ( I used to do that with oil paintings as well !)and that usually takes off all the shellac - BUT that was just on ordinary blue HMV 101s and NOT the croc type as i'm certain you will remove the graining as well

but as with all these tips try this on a a small corner under the machine and not the top of front where if something goes wrong you have to look at it for ever !

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 9:18 pm
by MissMySwiss
Gmemg wrote:
Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:13 am
I just brush on some paintstripper and then without waiting too long i wipe it off again ( I used to do that with oil paintings as well !)and that usually takes off all the shellac - BUT that was just on ordinary blue HMV 101s and NOT the croc type as i'm certain you will remove the graining as well

but as with all these tips try this on a a small corner under the machine and not the top of front where if something goes wrong you have to look at it for ever !
Do you know or maybe own a blue croc 101 that still has its original tone by any chance ?

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:00 pm
by Gmemg
I'll have to have a look as i'm not certain - i think so but i'm often mistaken !

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:30 am
by MissMySwiss
It's getting complicated these days ... Colonel, you mentionel repainting the leatherette. What kind of paint did you use ? I don't want to use soemthing too agressive to the dark blue or to dissolve it with the solvent of the paint. Any info greatly appreciated.

Re: HMV 101 crocodile rexine cleaning

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 1:23 pm
by Gmemg
I would just repaint the "cracks" and that's not difficult, just use ordinary white emulsion paint, add some green or blue of both powder paint just to tint it then apply with a small sized childs paint brush JUST to the cracks, then take a sponge and remove the excess by dabbing it over the paint and leave to dry for a day then either leave or just cover the new paint with a clear varnish to protect

should be fine - i've done a few like that the sponge bit is just to "age" the effect